The Press

5 years in Livermore

Dane Stark - Monday, November 01, 2010
Page Mill Winery grew up on the peninsula 45 miles south of San Francisco at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains, but finally came of age in 2005. That's when we found the property that we now call "home", in the Livermore Valley.

When we moved here we made not a single wine from grapes grown in this appellation. We harvested grapes from the "big time" appellations like Napa Valley, Alexander Valley, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara and Santa Cruz Mountains. I personally trucked the grapes during harvest from the outlying areas back to the winery and our move to Livermore wouldn't have to change anything... it's just as easy to truck the grapes to the East Bay as it is to the peninsula. In many cases it was easier... Now I don't have to fight the San Francisco traffic to get to Napa, it's a hop up 680, a skip on 37, and a jump up 29... easy.
So when i moved here I had very little interest in changing the Page Mill "mix". I did, however, know that i wanted to try making Sauvignon Blanc from the region because I had tasted a couple that piqued my interest with their fresh fruit and bright balance.
The first year, that was all that i dabbled in... Sauvignon Blanc.

Then, like a whisper, the vineyards began to call..... Syrah next door, Petite on the new property... and luscious Cab... I was blown away by the locals who were making wonderful wines like the Steven Kent Home Ranch Cab, the Wente Louis Mel Sauvignon Blanc and the Wood Family Madden Ranch Syrah. It was kept secret from me all the years I lived in and made wine in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Livermore was the ugly stepchild to the East... don't pay attention, he'll quiet down..... I was a lemming. Now i was discovering the vineyards and the culture of this hidden gem. I was realizing the history and tradition of 135 years of winemaking... not by movie stars and the wealthy, but by farmers and earnest hard working people.

The first vineyard to fall was the Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc. I could make better quality more cost competitive wine with all the freshness of the Paso fruit from a vineyard right up the road.... and I didn't have to truck up and down the state to do it..... a no brainer.

Then I tried Petite Sirah and Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The next appellation to go was the Alexander Valley and most of Napa. I was shedding appellations at an alarming rate. As I found myself immersed in the local growing scene I thought less and less about the Santa Barbara, Sonoma and Napa marketing machines, and more and more about quality, value, and goodness. I brought the focus closer and closer to our new location, we pulled in on ourselves and it was good. I see the vineyards grow throughout the season, I know the managers and owners and see them in the local coffee shop. We're all in this together.

I, now, rarely drive very far for grapes... and that's a good thing. We should all be aware of 'food miles'. For the 2010 harvest Page Mill Winery will make 95% of its wines from Livermore Valley fruit and most importantly we didn't have to sacrifice our overall objectives to do that. We are still making wines that finish in the top third of blind tastings, and are priced in the bottom third. I am still making hand crafted, delicious wines like my dad used to.

When I first moved to Livermore, I did it for business reasons, but we're staying for the grapes. It feels like we were always meant to be here. Like we've come home. I can't believe it's only been 5 years!
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